Home Loan Questions Answered

Our service is free for you. We're paid by the lender when your loan settles, not by you.

Standard loan fees (application or government fees) would apply regardless of using a broker or going direct. We'll clarify all costs upfront.

A bank only offers its own products, but we give you access to a wide range of lenders and loan options. This means we can find a deal tailored to your needs – often with better rates or features than a single bank.

At Raynor Lending Solutions, we handle all aspects of home lending. Our services include:

• Home Purchase Loans: Whether you're a first-home buyer or upgrading to a new house, we help you find the right mortgage.
• Refinancing: We assist homeowners in refinancing existing loans to lower their rate or access equity.
• Investment Property Loans: If you're investing in property, we'll find suitable loan options tailored for investors.
• Specialised Lending: We can also help with loans for construction, renovating, or using your home's equity for purposes like a new car or debt consolidation.

Think of us as your mortgage partner in any scenario – from the first home purchase to refinancing down the track. We research and compare lenders on your behalf, then guide you through application to settlement for a smooth experience.

We pride ourselves on being more than just number-crunchers. Our approach is personal and customer-focused. While many brokers might simply find you a loan, we take time to understand your goals and provide honest, transparent advice every step of the way. We're also a local Brisbane-based broker who knows the Australian market inside out. Our commitment is to put your needs first – we're not aligned with any one bank, and we'll always recommend what's truly best for you. In fact, Australian brokers are legally required to act in clients' best interests, which is a standard we take seriously. We aim to build lasting relationships, so our job isn't done once your loan settles: you can expect ongoing support, regular check-ins to ensure your loan remains competitive, and a friendly expert you can call anytime with questions. In short, Raynor Lending Solutions strives to be your trusted mortgage ally, not just a transaction facilitator.

Refinancing can offer significant benefits when done at the right time:

• Lower interest rate: Reduce monthly repayments and save on interest over the loan term
• Access equity: Borrow against your home's value for renovations, investments, or other expenses
• Better loan features: Switch to a loan with features that suit your current needs
• Debt consolidation: Combine higher-interest debts into your mortgage at a lower rate

We break down the home loan process into clear, manageable steps:

1. Initial Consultation: We discuss your goals, budget, and answer your questions
2. Pre-Approval: We submit your documents to secure conditional approval, valid for 3-6 months
3. Loan Selection: We compare options from multiple lenders and help you choose the best fit
4. Application: We prepare and submit all paperwork with supporting documents
5. Assessment: The lender reviews your application (typically 1-2 weeks)
6. Formal Approval: You receive unconditional approval and loan documents
7. Settlement: We coordinate with all parties to complete the loan process

Yes – you can borrow against your home equity for various purposes. Equity is the difference between your property's value and your remaining mortgage balance.

This can be a cost-effective way to fund renovations, buy a car, or consolidate debt since home loan rates are generally lower than other credit options.

Having a less-than-perfect credit history doesn't automatically bar you from getting a home loan. We know a bad credit record can feel like a big hurdle, but there are still options available. As brokers, we work with a variety of lenders – including some specialist lenders who are more flexible and willing to consider borrowers with past credit issues. What we'll do is review your situation thoroughly: how bad is the credit history, what caused it, and what's your financial position now. Factors like a previous default or missed payments might lead mainstream banks to say no, but a non-bank or specialist lender could still approve a loan (possibly at a slightly higher interest rate or with some conditions). Our role is to match you with a lender that fits your circumstances. We'll also be upfront about what you can do to improve your position – for example, proving you've paid off old debts, demonstrating stable income, or saving a larger deposit can help. Importantly, we're here to help, not to judge. Many people hit a bump in the road due to illness, job loss, or just life events. We treat your case with understanding and look for solutions. Bottom line: Don't write yourself off. Let's have a chat – we might be able to find a loan option for you even if your credit isn't perfect. And we'll give honest advice; if it's not feasible right now, we'll tell you what steps to take so you can qualify in the future.

Lender's Mortgage Insurance (LMI) is an insurance premium that protects the lender (not you, the borrower) in case you can't repay the loan. In Australia, lenders generally require LMI if your loan amount is more than 80% of the property's value. In other words, if you have less than a 20% deposit, LMI will likely apply. Here's how it works: suppose you're buying a $500,000 home. A 20% deposit is $100,000. If you have less than that (say a 10% deposit), the lender may still approve your loan but will add an LMI premium. This one-off premium can be thousands of dollars (the cost varies based on your loan size and how far below 20% deposit you are). Often, you can choose to capitalise the LMI – meaning the cost is added on top of your loan amount so you don't pay it upfront. Will you need it? That depends on your deposit and circumstances. We'll explain it case by case. For many first-home buyers, a 20% deposit isn't feasible, so paying LMI is a way to get into the market sooner with, say, a 5–15% deposit. There are also some ways to avoid LMI with a smaller deposit, such as:

• Using the First Home Guarantee scheme (if you're an eligible first-home buyer, this federal scheme allows as little as 5% deposit with no LMI), or
• Having a guarantor (a parent who offers equity in their property as additional security).

During our planning, we'll let you know if LMI would apply and how much it approximately is, and weigh that into the decision. Rest assured, we'll also try to find solutions to minimize that cost if possible. If LMI is required, we make sure you understand it fully – no confusing jargon, just straight-up advice on what it means for your loan.

Applying for a home loan does come with some paperwork. Being prepared with the key documents can speed up your approval. Here's a checklist of the common documents lenders typically require:

• Proof of Identity: Passport, driver licence, or other government-issued photo ID (to verify who you are).
• Income Verification: Recent payslips (usually 2-3 most recent payslips) and/or an employment letter. If you're self-employed, you'll need tax returns and possibly financial statements for the last 1-2 years.
• Bank Statements: Recent bank account statements (to show your savings history and spending habits). Typically, 3–6 months of statements for your everyday accounts.
• Savings or Deposit Proof: If you're buying, evidence of your deposit (bank statements showing accumulated savings, or a gift letter if family is helping, etc.).
• Liabilities and Expenses: Statements for any existing loans, credit cards, or other debts to show current balances and monthly payments. Lenders will also ask for an outline of your monthly living expenses.
• Property Details (if you've chosen a property): A copy of the signed contract of sale for the property you're buying. If refinancing, a recent mortgage statement for your current loan.
• Other documents: Depending on circumstances, there may be extras. For example, first-home buyer grant paperwork (if you're claiming a grant), or rental statements if you own investment properties, etc. We'll let you know exactly what's needed in your case.

We'll provide you with a detailed checklist and help you every step of the way. Our team will also double-check all documents to ensure they meet the lender's requirements before we submit your application. Getting these documents in order upfront helps make the process smoother and faster for your loan approval.

The timeline can vary depending on the lender and your situation, but generally a home loan approval (from application to formal approval) takes on the order of 1–2 weeks. Here's a rough breakdown of the stages:

• Pre-approval: Once we have your documents, a pre-approval can often be obtained in a few days (sometimes even 1–3 business days). Pre-approval is the initial green light subject to conditions.
• Formal Application & Verification: After you've found a property and signed a contract, the full application is submitted (if we haven't already). The bank will verify your documents, conduct a credit check, and perform a valuation on the property. This verification/assessment stage typically takes around 3–7 business days on average. Some lenders are faster, while others (especially during busy periods) might take longer.
• Unconditional (Formal) Approval: Once the lender is satisfied, they issue formal approval. We've seen many lenders issue approvals within a week of application when everything is in order. In straightforward cases, about 5–10 business days from submission is common. We always follow up with the lender to keep things moving.
• Loan Documents and Settlement: After approval, allow another week or so for the loan contract documents to be prepared, sent to you for signing, and returned. Settlement (payment of funds and property handover) will occur on the date in your contract, or for refinances, once the new loan is ready to pay out the old loan – often a couple of weeks after approval.

Keep in mind, these timelines assume we have all required info and there are no unexpected hiccups. Delays can happen if additional documents are needed or if the bank is dealing with high volumes. Our role is to prepare a thorough application (to minimize questions back from the lender) and to chase up the bank proactively. We'll also let you know if a particular lender is currently slower or faster – speed can be one factor in choosing who we go with. Overall, you should plan for roughly a few weeks from applying to settlement. If you have a tight deadline (for example, a finance clause date on a purchase contract), please let us know – we'll choose an efficient lender and do everything possible to meet the timeframe. Communication is key, and we'll keep you updated on the progress.

Yes, if you're planning to buy a property, it's highly recommended to get pre-approval (also known as conditional approval) before you seriously start house-hunting. A pre-approval is an agreement from a lender indicating how much you can borrow, based on an initial assessment. It gives you a clear budget and confidence when making offers.

Why it's useful: With a pre-approval in hand, real estate agents and sellers know you're a serious buyer. It can strengthen your position if you need to negotiate on price or auction, since you've essentially been credit-checked and initially vetted by the lender. It also helps prevent heartbreak – you won't waste time on a home outside your price range.

What it involves: We will submit some of your information to a lender for this process – you'll provide documents like proof of income, savings, etc. The lender then checks your financial situation (and often your credit file) and will issue a pre-approval for a certain amount. Pre-approvals can sometimes be given very quickly (even within a day or two, depending on the lender). They usually come with conditions (for example, "subject to a satisfactory property valuation" and sometimes subject to providing additional documents if anything was missing).

How long it lasts: Most pre-approvals are valid for around 3 months, and some up to 6 months. If you don't find a property in that time, we can renew or seek a new pre-approval. It's worth noting that a pre-approval is not a 100% guarantee, but it's a strong indication you can get the loan, barring any major changes. We make sure to use reliable lenders for pre-approvals (some lenders do more thorough checks upfront than others) so that you can trust the pre-approval.

In short, getting pre-approved is a smart first step in your home-buying journey. We'll handle the application for you and let you know exactly what's needed. Then you can shop for your new home with peace of mind about your financing.

The ideal deposit is 20% of the property price, because that lets you avoid paying Lenders Mortgage Insurance. However, many buyers (especially first-home buyers) don't have a full 20%, and that's okay – most lenders will accept a minimum deposit of 5% of the purchase price, provided you meet their other criteria. In practical terms, that means if you're looking at a $600,000 home, you'd want at least $30,000 (which is 5%) saved as a deposit, though more is certainly better. Here's a quick rundown:

• 20% deposit (80% LVR): The gold standard. No LMI required. E.g., $120k on a $600k home. Many buyers use this if possible, often by leveraging equity from a previous home or taking time to save up.
• 10% deposit: Quite common. Many lenders will accept 10%, but you'll likely pay LMI. With 10% ($60k on a $600k home), your LMI will be lower than with 5% deposit, and some lenders have slightly better rates for 10% vs 5%.
• 5% deposit: Minimum for most lenders. This is doable for first-home buyers – you will pay LMI or need a government low-deposit scheme or guarantor. Some lenders may ask that the 5% is "genuine savings" (money you've saved slowly over time) unless you're using a scheme.

There are also special cases: The First Home Guarantee scheme (if you're eligible) allows as little as 5% deposit with no LMI. And there's a Family Home Guarantee for single parents that can allow 2% deposit with no LMI (very specific criteria). Additionally, if you have a parent who can act as a guarantor, you might even purchase with 0% deposit by using equity from your parents' property – meaning you don't need a cash deposit at all (this option avoids LMI too, but it's a big ask of your folks and comes with its own considerations). When we meet, we'll look at how much you have saved and factor in purchase costs (like stamp duty and legal fees) to determine what you can afford. Remember, besides the deposit, you need some extra savings to cover those other costs (see next question). If your deposit is on the lower side, we'll discuss strategies like LMI, first-home buyer schemes, or guarantor loans. Our goal is to help you get into your home with a deposit you can manage, while ensuring you're comfortable with the loan repayments going forward.

When buying a home, it's important to plan for the upfront costs beyond the deposit. These are the additional expenses you'll need to pay in the buying process. Common costs include:

• Stamp Duty (Transfer Duty): This is usually the biggest extra cost. Stamp duty is a state government tax on property purchases. How much it is depends on the property price and the state/territory (and whether you're a first-home buyer eligible for concessions). In QLD, for example, first-home buyers get an exemption up to a certain property value; above that, duty applies. We can help estimate this for you (and there are calculators) – it can be tens of thousands on higher-priced properties, so definitely account for it.
• Legal/Conveyancing Fees: You'll need a solicitor or conveyancer to handle the title transfer and legal paperwork. This typically ranges from about $800 to $2,000 depending on the firm and complexity.
• Building and Pest Inspections: If you're buying an established home, it's wise to get inspections. These usually cost a few hundred dollars each.
• Loan Application or Establishment Fee: Some lenders charge an upfront application fee or settlement fee (often around $200–$600). Many lenders waive these, especially as part of promotions – we'll try to choose options with low or no such fees, but it's something to check.
• Lenders Mortgage Insurance (LMI): As discussed in the LMI question, if your deposit is under 20% and you don't qualify for an exemption, the one-off LMI premium will either need to be paid upfront at settlement or can be added on top of your loan. It's technically not paid out-of-pocket upfront if capitalised into the loan, but you should budget for its impact.
• Mortgage Registration and Transfer Fees: These are government charges to register the new mortgage and change the property title to your name. They're smaller – often a few hundred dollars each (for example, in QLD the title transfer fee and mortgage registration might total around $500–$1,000, varying by price).
• Moving Costs and Utilities: Don't forget the practical stuff – hiring a removalist truck, connection fees for electricity/internet, etc. These aren't huge in the scheme of things but have some money set aside.
• Insurance: On settlement, you'll want building insurance for your new home (if a house). Lenders actually require you to have insurance from the day of settlement. Getting a quote beforehand and knowing that annual premium (or monthly cost) is good for budgeting.

In total, these costs can add roughly an extra 5–7% of the property price (very roughly – stamp duty is the big swing factor). For example, on a $500,000 home, you might have $20k–$30k in costs (if stamp duty applies). As your broker, part of our job is to help you calculate these upfront costs early on so you know what funds you'll need in addition to your deposit. We'll ensure you're not caught off guard and that you have a clear picture of the total funds required to comfortably complete your purchase.

Fixed Rate:

Downsides: No benefit if rates fall. Limited flexibility for extra repayments. Break costs if you end the loan early. Limited offset account options.

Variable Rate:

Downsides: Repayments can increase if interest rates rise.

An offset account is a feature of some home loans, essentially a transaction account linked to your mortgage. The money you keep in this account "offsets" (or reduces) the balance of your home loan when interest is calculated. In practice, it works like this: Imagine you have a home loan of $400,000 and an offset account linked to that loan. If you have $20,000 in the offset account (just sitting there as your savings or salary), the bank will only charge you interest on the difference – i.e., on $380,000 instead of $400,000. Every dollar in your offset is like a dollar less you owe on the loan. This can save you a significant amount in interest and help you pay off your loan sooner, without you actually having to put all that money directly into the loan. Important points about offsets:

• It's like a regular everyday bank account (you can deposit and withdraw freely – your salary can go in, you can pay bills out of it, etc.), but instead of earning interest like a normal savings account, it saves you interest on your mortgage. Often the interest saved is more beneficial because it's at your home loan rate (which is usually higher than savings rates, and savings interest would be taxed whereas interest saved is not taxed).
• Offset accounts are usually available on variable rate loans (most banks don't offer full offset on fixed rates). Some loans come with multiple offset accounts (useful if you want to partition your savings), but most people just use one.
• There's no "lock-in": the money is yours. If you need it for an emergency or an expense, you can withdraw from the offset anytime. However, when the money isn't in the offset, it's not offsetting your loan – so the interest saving adjusts with your balance. It typically works on daily balances (interest is calculated daily), so even short-term money in offset helps.

Example impact: Suppose your mortgage rate is 5% and you keep an extra $10,000 in offset on average. That saves you $500 in interest over a year (5% of $10k), which means effectively $500 extra off your loan principal compared to not having that offset. It's like you paid $500 extra, but it came from the interest saved, not from your pocket each month. Over time, this compounding save-on-interest helps shorten your loan term.

In summary, an offset account is a powerful tool to reduce interest while keeping funds flexible. We often recommend getting a loan with 100% offset if you plan to keep savings – it can shave years off your loan. We'll discuss whether an offset account makes sense for you (some basic loans without offset might have a slightly lower rate or lower fees, so if you wouldn't utilise an offset, we might opt for a simpler loan). If you do use an offset, we'll make sure you know how to get the best benefit from it, such as depositing your salary and using it as the hub for all your money.

Simply meeting with a broker doesn't affect your credit score. What matters is the number of loan applications (credit enquiries) made.

Credit bureaus typically recognise when you're shopping for a mortgage and may treat multiple enquiries in a short period as a single event.

Very often, yes. Mortgage brokers have a few advantages when it comes to securing low rates:

• Access to Multiple Lenders: We check offers from dozens of banks and lenders, including major banks, regional banks, credit unions, and wholesale lenders. This competition means we can find the most competitive rate for your situation from a wide pool of options. A bank will only offer you its in-house rates, which might not be the best in the market. We regularly see that one lender might be, say, cutting rates to win customers this month, or another has a special for refinancers – and we'll know and leverage that.
• Negotiating Power: Because brokers bring a lot of business to lenders, we often have the ability to negotiate better rates or get discretionary discounts on your behalf. Lenders know you have choices, especially with a broker shopping around, so they're more inclined to put their best foot forward. We can sometimes get a lower rate for you than what you might get walking into a bank branch, especially if your situation is strong (good credit, good equity) – we'll push for any rate discounts available.
• Wholesale Lenders and Broker-Only Products: There are lenders that operate via brokers only (they don't have branch networks) which often have low-overhead, competitive rates. We can access those. Also, some major banks have broker-only special deals. For example, a big bank might have a promotional rate for loans lodged through brokers to increase volume – we'll know about these.
• Knowledge of the Market: We stay on top of interest rate trends. If one lender drops rates, we know quickly. This means we can advise if it's worth switching or ask your current lender to match a competitor. In fact, as part of our service, we'll not only get you a great rate at the start, but continue to review it. If we think you could do better down the line, we can go back to the lender to negotiate or refinance you to a new lender if needed.

It's worth noting that the interest rates we secure for you are the same or better as what you'd get directly. You're not paying extra for using a broker. Lenders pay us via commission, but they do so out of their marketing budget – it doesn't result in a higher rate for you (and by law, a broker must act in your best interest when recommending a loan). We're transparent about how we get paid, and it doesn't impact the rate you get. In summary, using a broker absolutely can save you money. Our goal is to find you the most competitive deal – that's a huge part of our value. We do the rate shopping and negotiating for you. Often, that means a lower interest rate or a loan with lower fees than you might find on your own, potentially saving you thousands over the life of the loan.

Refinancing can involve some costs, but they're often outweighed by the benefits:

• Discharge fee: $150-350 to close your current loan
• Fixed rate break costs: Potentially applies if you're still in a fixed term
• Registration fees: Government charges to register the new mortgage
• Application fees: Some lenders charge setup fees ($0-600), though many waive these
• LMI: May apply if borrowing more than 80% of your property value

Review your home loan at least once a year. What was a great deal two years ago might not be competitive today.

Consider a review when:

• It's been over 2 years since you got your loan
• RBA interest rates have changed significantly
• Your financial situation has changed
• You've gained significant equity in your property
• Your fixed rate period is ending